We offer Sportster Stuff that will:
How to decide which pulley is for you!
By increasing the number of "teeth" on the front transmission pulley you slow the engine down which saves you gas, increases the life of the engine and decreases the engine operating temperature. The pulley you choose depends on how YOU drive. The pulley needs to match YOU, not your neighbor or the "expert" on a forum. Just pay attention to your left foot; if you are into fifth gear and your foot keeps trying to find "sixth", your riding style dictates YOU want a pulley with more teeth. You may view and download a pdf sheet that lists all the years, pulley sizes and engines under "Documents". Following are pulley suggestions by year and engine.
883's,1991-2003: These came with a 27 tooth front pulley. This pulley is fine for around town, two-up riding, and very little Interstate, speeds above 65 mph. If you ride solo and spend at least half your time around 65 miles per hour you want a 29 tooth pulley, this is what HD put on the 1200's. If you spend "most" of your time on the Interstate at 75 mph, and north, you want a 30 tooth pulley. These do not require a belt change.
883's, 2004-UP: HD lowered the primary ratio in 2004, on 883's. These came with a 28 until 2012, HD went to a 29 tooth front pulley. Either of these pulleys are fine for around town, two-up riding, and very little Interstate, speeds above 60 mph. If you like to cruise, a lot, around 65 mph and still easily handle 2-up, the 30 tooth is for you. If you ride solo and spend at least half your time 65 miles per hour and north, you want a 32 tooth pulley. The 32 will give you almost the same over all ratio HD put on the 1200's. The 32 tooth size almost makes up for the lower primary gearing from HD. If you are a solo rider, spend "most" of your time on the Interstate at 75 mph, and north, you will also want to change your rear pulley from the 68 tooth to a 66 tooth pulley. The 66 tooth is designed for a 1" belt. These changes do not require a belt change.
1200's,1991-UP: These have a 29 tooth front pulley, domestic. Some "International" 1200's starting in 2004, have a 30 tooth. The 29 tooth pulley is fine for around town, acceptable for the Interstate to 70 mph, and two-up riding. If you spend at least half your time around 75 miles per hour, you want a 30 tooth pulley. HD lowered the primary ratio on 1200's in 2004, but not much. These ratios are listed on the PDF you may download. This pulley does not require a belt change.
From 1991-2003 there was an "International" rear pulley available with 55 teeth. This pulley requires a 125 tooth belt, everything else in these years is a 128 tooth belt. Lowering the cruise RPM above 65 mph helps reduce the engine vibration to the frame. Vibration is particularly bothersome in these years because the engine is solidly mounted to the frame. The 32 tooth pulley offers the same final gear ratio as switching to a 55 tooth rear pulley, but does not require a belt change. In 2004, HD started mounting the Sportster engines in rubber; a much smoother ride.
Under "Testimonials" you can read what users have to say about the pulley they chose, and Installation Instructions are available under "Documents". The 32 requires some modification to the back side of the pulley cover and cover mounting pads on the engine. If you are "handy" with tools the mods are not too demanding. If you do not consider youself "handy" you may want to have someone else do this, or purchase a custom cover from "BQuazySportster.com", they not only look cool, but are designed to accept the 32 tooth pulley. The 30 tooth pulleys do not require modification except for the XR1200's. Pictures and instructions describe what must be done. If you do not wish to modify your pulley cover the largest pulley that will fit is a 30 tooth.
Rear 66 Tooth Sportster Overdrive Pulley: 2004-UP (2004-2006 requires 1" belt)
Blacked-Out, HD style Black Wrinkle!!
This pulley will reduce engine RPM's about 3%, which is like getting a free 5 mph at 70 mph! Does not require a belt change. Uses your original hardware.
A 1-7/8" socket with 1/2" drive, 6-point, just for Harley Davidson Sportsters!
Don't stuggle with a 2-1/4 pound socket and a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter on the end of your impact! This special aluminum billet socket weighs only 1/4 pound! This 6-point socket incorporates "relieved" corners to reduce the risk of rounding the nut: the SPSOC-178!!
Changing front pulleys has always been difficult because of the size of the pulley nut and because HD uses Red "LockTite" on the threads. You need an impact wrench. You may have one, but it is a 1/2" drive. The 1-7/8" socket is always a 3/4" drive, and who has one of those?
Order a socket with your pulley, and it will ship for free with the pulley!
The “Halo Headlight” is designed to fit the standard 5½” headlight used by Harley Davidson for the Sportster line. The Halo is a waterproof strip of 39, 12 volt LED's. The strip is attached directly to the existing installed headlamp with the outdoor double-stick tape provided. Power for the Halo is supplied to the LED’s by the front running lamp service. The Halo is protected with the fuse in the running light service. Electrical connection is made with the adapter module supplied. The Halo is activated with the key switch. No modification to your wiring system is required. The Halo is installed the same way regardless of color, Blue or White.
The XR1200 as geared from the HD Dealer is for quick acceleration, a 1/4 mile Machine! And it is quick!
However, for distance riding the final drive ratio is quite low with interstate rpm's at 4,000+! So, the engine noise is greater, the gas mileage is poorer, and the engine/oil temperature is higher than desired. These operating characteristics can be altered by changing the final drive gearing. One way is to change the primary engine sprocket & chain from the 34 tooth to the 38 tooth. This change will lower your engine rpm at 70 mph almost 500 rpm. This change maintains the speedometer accuracy as the speedometer pick-up is the 4th gear in the transmission. If you don't want to get into the primary cover, or pay someone else too, or you are not interested in such a large change in engine rpm, there are alternatives. An alternate method is to change one or both of the final drive pulleys.
Front Transmission Pulley
This is a 30 Tooth Pulley modified for clearance to the XR1200 pulley cover. Even with the modification there is still some "clearancing" required to the mounting for the cover to allow for the increase in diameter. This pulley will reduce your engine rpm at 70 mph about 250 rpm. This pulley does not require a belt change. However, it will affect your speedometer by making it read "slower" than road speed by about 6%. We suggest you verify your speedometer against a GPS before investing in a speedometer correction device as HD is sometimes off from the factory. This is a new pulley.
Rear Wheel Pulley
This is an HD 66 Tooth pulley modified to fit the XR wheel hub, fit the spacing of the frame/wheel hub, and use your existing grade eight pulley bolts. This pulley will lower your engine rpm about 3%. This pulley does not require a belt change. However, it will affect your speedometer by making it read "slower" than road speed by about 3%. We suggest you verify your speedometer against a GPS before investing in a speedometer correction device as speedometers are sometimes off by about 3% from the factory. This pulley is either a very good used unit or a "take-off".
You can change pulleys to have a road bike, a race bike or anything in between. You may use any one option alone, or change out both final drive pulleys.
As you can see, the primary sprocket and these final drive pulleys allow you options; What would you like to do?
If you change your pulley or rear tire, your speedometer is wrong, you know the gage that keeps you from getting a ticket; and so is your odometer, you know, the "gage" you use to buy gas so you don't run out!
We offer two styles of "The Corrector" simply to match the style of "connector" HD used on your speed sensor. Installation is real simple; unplug your speed sensor and plug "The Corrector" in between! To set The Corrector for your gearing change requires no tools or computer. All adjustment is "at" The Corrector". The Corrector may be re-set at any time in the future to adjust for change.
The TS1-SP is a 4½” diameter, digital, combination tachometer & speedometer gauge. The TS1-SP replaces the Sportster factory speedometer. The original metal bracket, rear mounting plate and screws are used. An adapter housing is provided to allow the 4½” gauge to mount to the existing 3-3/8” metal bracket. The TS1-SP provides all indicator light functions; Turn Signals, Neutral Indicator, Low Oil Pressure and High Beam. A new wiring harness is provided, and plugs directly to the factory main harness. The new harness replaces the original speedometer, light indicator and VSS harness. No cutting or splicing of wires is required.
HD gave you two turn signals and one rear tail light. When that tail light bulb burns out you have nothing to help cars and trucks behind you SEE YOU! Add the "Triple Light" to your bike and enhance the turn signals to become running lights as well! Arm yourself with three tail lights! Just plug it in and it works! We have chosen this design because you keep your original amber lenses. The amber is much brighter than red; visibility is what it is all about!
Under "Testimonials" you can read what users have to say about the "Triple Light", and Installation Instructions are available under "Documents".
Your Sportster is okay for around town and occasional blasts down the Interstate. But, as you now know, trying to ride for more than an hour or so "Your Stuff" starts to hurt. Your wrists, your back, and your neck all start telling you it's time to stop, get off and walk around for a while. The main problem is the original handlebars. Generically they are referred to as "Drag Bars" because they are almost straight across, have very little "rise" and almost no "pullback". What all this means is what you already know; you have to lean forward to reach the bars, you have to support your tense your back and support yourself with your wrists and you have to bend your neck "up" to see, you are not comfortable!
To be comfortable for most of a day requires a seating position that allows the rider to relax, have the arms in a "natural" position, and a back that is almost straight with no tension. You can prove this to yourself. Just stand straight, then raise your forearms at the elbows to about a 90 degree angle. Pay attention to where your wrists are and which way your hands are facing. Now go sit on your bike, see any difference in your back, wrist and hand positioning? The other test is simple too; when you stop at a red light after riding for any time at all, do you find yourself releasing the handlebars, sitting up straight, and either letting your arms "hang" or rest them on your thighs or the gas tank? If either of these scenarios is you, then you want the bars we offer. They are the only bars we offer, and the above reasons are why.
The HB-HD1.0 Handlebars we offer do all these things for you. They have the most rise and pullback allowable without replacing any cables or brake lines, EXCEPT ROADSTERS & OTHER DUAL FRONT DISC BIKES. DUAL DISC BIKES REQUIRE EITHER REPLACING THE TOP HOSE WITH A LONGER ONE BY A HYDRAULIC HOSE REPAIR SHOP, REPLACEMENT WITH A LONGER BRAIDED LINE OR PURCHASING A LONGER BRAKE LINE FROM THE HD DEALER. However, with these handlebars you can ride for hours without developing pain in your wrists, back, and neck!
You will also want to replace your grips with your new bars. We offer two styles, Textured & Leather covered. They both are a larger diameter than the ones that came on your Sportster. You know, the ones that are now "sticky" and make your hands black! The "Textured" are comfortable, the Leather Covered don't get as hot in the sun, and they just look cool!
Above are the Leather Covered, below are the "textured". You can see how much larger these grips are compared to the stock ones.
The original seat is okay for anything less than an hour. In order to "cruise" you'll have to get a wide and well padded seat. Be sure to get one with a rear "lift" that you can shift against or "rise" up onto. No matter who you are, after two hours or so in the same position your butt will feel like you've been sitting on flat steel. If your seat will allow you to rise up a little and take the pressure off, you can continue riding for another hour or so before stopping. Seats are expensive but really worthwhile!